Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
