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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.